Trail
Trailer Construction
Originally
appeared in
the U4WDA Compass Magazine, Spring 2006:
Trail
Trailer Construction
– Part 1 (of a 3 part series)
By Kurt
Williams
I love
camping, anywhere,
anytime, any conditions, I just plain love to camp. That being said, I
despise having to get ready to go on camping trips, be it just a single
night camping trip, or an extended length trip. “Did I remember the
can-opener?”,
“Hope I have matches!”, “Did the water get loaded?”, and every other
last
minute scenario drive me nuts. Loading for a trip is just one hurdle, I
equally despise unloading at the end of the trip, a necessity as I
don’t
like to leave my Landcruiser completely full of expensive & bulky
camping
gear.
In addition
to my hatred
for the load/unload, there lies the issue of space management. Even
with
only two passengers, the rear area of my Landcruiser is overwhelmed by
camping gear, not easy to load/unload or access gear at camp. What
happens
when I bring a couple friends along? Not only is my cargo space
drastically
reduced, my mean load has now doubles as well. Those with smaller rigs
or larger families can realize my pain.
I don’t
like to go “wheeling”
with all my camping gear, if it is wet & muddy the gear gets
soaked,
if it is hot & dry and I am worried about my 40 quart cooler
melting
in the sun. With a trail trailer, I can leave it locked and secure at a
base camp with all non-essential gear set-up for camping or stored
securely
in the trailer. Not all trails & camping utilize a “base camp”,
thus
a major design requirement of the trailer would require it to go
anywhere
the Landcruiser could go if needed.
All this
sums up the need
for a dedicated “Trail Trailer” that would contain every possible
camping
need, thus preventing any forgotten items. It would stay loaded,
secure,
and ready to go. NO MORE wasting my time getting ready!
MY
PROJECT:
The project
started some
years ago with the carcass of a fiberglass Landcruiser tub that sat at
the old shop (Cruiser Outfitters in SLC). The owner Darrell had kept it
around for such a project but realized it would never come to light
under
his busy schedule; this is where I came in. Using the frame of an old
FJ55
Landcruiser, I hastily constructed a makeshift frame, still utilizing
the
original semi-float Landcruiser rear axle. This would allow me to get
it
mobile, and move the project to the side of my house, where it would
spend
its next few years in the baking in the sun and freezing in the snow.
The year’s
end of 2003 re-kindled
my need for the trail trailer, I had a goal to camp at least 20 times
in
the coming spring/summer/fall seasons and I knew my Achilles heel with
respect to camping as previously mentioned. I inventoried my parts,
jotted
down some ideas, and got to work.
PRELIMINARY
SPECIFICATIONS
& DESIGN:
Every good
product/design
starts with some solid research and brainstorming. With an end goal in
mind, I started looking at similar products on the market, why waste my
time building one if an affordable option was readily available. Too my
surprise, there were quite a few readily available options currently on
the market, however fully outfitted they ranged in price from
$3000-$12000+
depending on options, needless to say WAY out of my student budget.
Plus,
what a better way to spend the cold winter than adding another toy to
the
fold!
The trailer
MUST be capable
of handling any trail I plan to take it on, that’s not to say I plan to
pull it on every hard trail, but I want to leave my options open. The
trailer
must utilize the same size tires as my Landcruiser, once again all
about
leaving me options. It must be relatively watertight, capable of
staying
secured, lightweight and track well behind the Landcruiser. I must be
able
to intentionally jack-knife the trailer, without damaging the
Landcruiser
or trailer. It needed to have a low center of gravity and no taller
than
the back of my Landcruiser. It must ride nice in order to protect its
cargo
(such as eggs) from shock damage. After all, if I am going to do it,
why
not do it right.
OUTFITTING
THE TRAILER
With a lot of
ideas, yet
little time & resources (money) to accomplish them, I turned to a
respected
group of friends to help prioritize the things the trail trailer
needed.
I posted a couple of online polls posing questions like “What items
would
you add?” & “What do you take camping”, etc. I netted a wide range
of potential additions to my trail trailer, ranging from complex stereo
systems to onboard refrigerators & stoves.
My wish
list started to
grow:
12V
Refrigerator/Freezer
Optima yellow
top to manage
power needs when not in tow
Hard mounted
& plumbed
propane
Food
preparation area (cutting
board)
Lighting for
both the contents
as well as the surrounding camp area
Lantern mast
with additional
fittings for a BBQ
Fuel &
water of the
way place to carry water
Utensils,
condiment, napkin/towel
holders
Spare tire
mounted on back
120V generator
hard mounted
WHATS
NEXT?
Stay tuned for
the next
installment. The next Compass issue will detail the construction
portion
of the trail trailer, as well as what items I chose to initially stock
it with. Until then, start building yours!
Originally
appeared in
the U4WDA Compass Magazine, Summer 2006:
Trail
Trailer Construction
– Part 2 (of a 3 part series)
By Kurt
Williams
In the last
edition of the
Compass, I detailed my wants and needs for a trailer with off-road
capability
and camping in mind. I developed a preliminary set of specifications
that
the trailer must satisfy, as well as rather intensive list of the
equipment
that the trailer. My goal was to incorporate as many of these
specifications
on a limited budget.
CONSTRUCTING
THE TRAILER
Every trailer
build is bound
to be different, thus I will just cover the basics rather than the
detailed
specifics of my particular build.
Frame:
A stout yet
lightweight frame is key. Don’t be afraid to add extra frame support,
the
little weight addition is well worth the piece of mind you will have in
your trailers durability. My trailer is constructed from the back half
of an FJ55 Landcruiser, including the rear leaf springs. This in
addition
to a few miscellaneous pieces of steel for the tongue and frame support
makes up a rather stout frame. Frame options are infinite, using an
existing
frame can save you from mounting suspension, but making a custom frame
from square or round tube is easy enough. Base your decision on
available
parts and material as well as your fabrication abilities, after all
this
is the most crucial part of the trailer.
Suspension:
There
are as many options for your trailer build as there are for your 4x4.
Coils,
leafs, torsions, even trailing arms. Inventory your available parts,
and
once again your fabrication skills. Leaf springs will most likely be
the
easiest option, trailer supply shops stock all different varieties of
springs
as well as the hangers, shackles, and perches to mount them to your
axle
and frame. Other considerations include SUA versus SOA (spring-under
versus
spring-over), how much load you intend to carry, length of springs,
etc.
Axles:
Numerous options
to choose from. You could use a duplicate of your rigs rear axle,
leaving
you with an extra set of spares in case of breakage. Or you could
salvage
a wrecking yard axle from a camper, etc… In my case I chose to buy a
new
dedicated trailer axle, the price was right and with hubs and a
matching
lug pattern, I was only out $125. Not bad considering the amount of
time
it saved scouring the yards or tracking down the needed parts. Axle
width
and flange patterns are important factors to consider. A matching lug
pattern
can save you the need for a second spare, or give you a couple more
spares
for your rig. Axle width is a very important factor; you don’t want the
track of the trailer wider than your rig! You can get a bit fancier
with
the axle options, brakes, torsion axles, etc. Stop by your local
trailer
supply shop, many times they will have them in stock and on display for
your inspection… Bring a tape measure!
Hitch:
Ball or Pintle?
If you have ever seen a Pintle work, you will see the obvious benefits
the Pintle will provide in off-road situations. Though the initial cost
is much higher than a simple ball hitch setup, the payoffs are well
worth
the ~$100 investment. In the case of my trailer, I was able to source a
military surplus rotation Pintle receiver hitch that allows the lunette
(the loop on the trailer) to rotate 360° (allowing the trailer to
do
barrel roles if needed). A trip to your local trailer supply shop
should
yield you several different Pintle (and ball hitch) options to choose
from.
Body:
The body can
easily take the most amount of work, the largest chunk of $$$ and the
most
time. You can simplify the work by using all or part of pickup truck
bed,
tub, or existing trailer body. Alternatively you can start from scratch
and fabricate a body of your own. There are countless ways to do it,
countless
things to consider, and countless options to include. Do you want it to
be water-tight? How much cargo do you need it to carry? Do you want it
to hold fuel, water, propane, etc? How do you want to finish it, paint,
rubberized liner, truck-bed style liners? Spend a minute sketching what
you want on paper, it may save you some frustration down the road.
STOCKING
THE TRAILER
Whether it is
simple campfire
meals, or a complex menu… I wanted to have the cooking means necessary
with little forethought. This isn’t easy for your average guy; rather
we
usually take a box of donuts, a 12-pack of Mountain Dew and some potato
chips. The nice thing about all of the extra room a trailer provides is
the ability to just take it all. Weight really isn’t an issue for local
trips, and it is better to have it and not use it, then to need it and
have it on the shelf at home. I carry a complete set of pots &
pans,
ample silverware, condiments, the cooler, a dry foods box, a 6’x3’
folding
table, tents, camp chairs, water containers, and even a napkin holder!
Choose your stock as you wish, with the extra cargo space, your options
can vary widely from your conventional packing arrangement.
WHATS
NEXT?
Stay tuned for
the next
installment. The next Compass issue will discuss the use of the
trailer,
initial impressions, and things I would change/modify. Until then, keep
working on yours!
Originally
appeared in
the U4WDA Compass Magazine, Fall 2006:
Trail
Trailer Construction
– Part 3 (of a 3 part series)
By Kurt
Williams
In the last
edition of the
Compass, I described some of the considerations you should keep in mind
during the construction and outfitting of your trailer. For the most
part,
my trailer is nearly complete (is a project ever complete?), thus this
last installment will detail my initial impressions, things I would
change,
things I plan to add, etc.
Towing
the trailer:
My
trail-trailer is considerably
lightweight, even when completely loaded for a weekend’s adventure.
Still,
it does slow down travel. Consider your camping needs for the trip, and
decide if the trailer is really needed. I still find myself packing
everything
in the back of my Cruiser for a quick overnighter, saving myself the
trouble
of pulling the trailer. That said it tows great, both on and off road.
With a dozen plus trips with the trailer, I can’t think of anything I
would
do to the suspension/frame/axles of the trailer, they seem to do
great.
Wheeling
with the trailer:
Its back there
and you will
surely remember it. The trailer will quickly become an anchor in the
rocks
if you don’t plan accordingly, spotting for the trailer is ever
important.
Tight trails don’t leave much room for backing, though it hasn’t proved
to be much of an issue to date. The key is to remember that extra pair
of wheels out back, just as soon as you think you are up and over a
ledge
or rock, that third pair of un-powered tires strikes up against it… a
little
wheel speed goes along way to keep your forward momentum. In February I
was on my way home from Moab via dirt roads north of Arches National
Park.
With snow on the ground and the sun out, the road was sure to be muddy…
needless to say I have an entirely new respect for “not passable when
wet”
signs. The trailer made my 30 mile trip take nearly twice as much time.
The load in the trailer sank the tires into the deep mud (more like
clay!)
and instantly I was using the lockers and plenty of throttle just to
make
it up a slight incline. Take situations such as this into consideration
when planning your route!
What
would I change &
hope to change?
I plan to
really water &
dust proof the trailer. For the most part it keeps the moisture out,
even
while traveling in storms, but keeping water completely out has been
some
what challenging. Dust on the other hand has been impossible to
conquer…
it seems to find its way in everywhere. A couple of hours of work could
go a long ways to fix both these problems… one of these days. My
organization
in the trailer could use a bit of help to, I have made some huge steps
in regards to this with the purchase of some large plastic storage bins
that will help stow gear in a more efficient manner.
Did it
accomplish all
my initial goals?
Yes, for the
most part.
I can take a lot more gear on extended wheeling trips, literally it can
carry enough gear for four people when necessary. I can keep the
camping
gear loaded in a locked trailer at home, and I secure gear at camp
while
I’m out on the trail. I can keep all my “regular” camping items in the
trailer, ready for a short notice trip. I have the option to implement
things never possible with just a 4x4, such as on-board propane, 120V
power
via a small generator, etc.
WHATS
NEXT?
Look for the
“Trail Trailer”
on a trail near you. I hope I haven’t bored you to death with my
sometimes
excessive analysis. I’ll probably give you a brief update in an issue
or
two; I have some future modifications and additions in mind.
Custom
Offroad Trailer
Notes & Pictures